The Sublime Barbeque
by: Janice Kortkamp
date: January 15, 2019
Ingredients for a sublime barbeque – and a glowy, golden memory for my last full day in Damascus on the most recent trip: time with a great friend; wonderful new acquaintances; ancient castle-home setting; friendly husky dog; nice weather; incredible food; and love songs sung by a beautiful Syrian lady with an equally beautiful voice.
That glow just happens as I try to describe things there – a common experience for travelers to the country actually. I’m not going to try to explain or justify it except to say that oftentimes experiences there are like the difference between eating a commercially grown-for-transport grocery store apple from who-knows-where, and picking a ripe one in an orchard, warm from an autumn sun, and eating it on the spot.
That’s not to say every moment in Syria is like that. There are times, seeing the damage and hearing the gut wrenching stories of the war, that are indescribably hard to absorb. Or getting stuck in traffic in heavy, hot air, for example when it’s just another country with car fumes and blaring horns. But the hard days get soothed and healing happens during special times with friends.
My friend Adel picked me up at my hotel in Bab Touma and we walked for quite a while to get to the home of his friends where the picnic was to be, at one point going through a large fruit and vegetable market, and at another wading thru fast moving traffic under an overpass getting the background on it all along the way. I’m a country girl so whenever I’m crossing serious traffic I always stay ‘downstream’ of any Syrian I’m with as they unperturbedly zig zag among the vehicles.
We arrived…going first through an outer door, a small courtyard, then through inner doors, an impressive foyer-tunnel, finally reaching the inner courtyard of the 800 year old former fortress-palace. Much of the home is damaged from time and a large fire, and remains so because of local laws that have put a prohibition on restoration as the result of developers’ pressure. Yes, there are sadly some in Syria that want ugly strip malls to replace such historical treasures as happens around the world. The damage gave the place a melancholy beauty. The ancient kitchen was particularly impressive and it was easy to imagine the great feasts that would have come from it. Living areas of the family have been modernized and made comfortable however.
In the inner courtyard, the wood was ready to put in the grill and start the fire; then the food started coming out for final preparation: chicken marinated in garlic, citrus juice, green ginger, salt and lemon zest; chunks of lamb and succulent lamb fat; minced lamb with spices; small tomatoes and onions – all to be skewered and grilled. One by one each main course had it’s time on the fire and as they were taken off the heat the skewers were placed in pots with bread, heated on the coals, on top to keep them warm. The sizzling juicy meat right off the grill – I had to test it – was exquisite. My interest in the food was mirrored by the friendly husky!
Added to all that deliciousness was my friend’s “mahammra” made of red pepper paste, pomegranate syrup, garlic, salt, biscuit crumbs, walnuts, olive oil and lemon juice. The red pepper paste and pomegranate syrup he had made himself, being the master cook that he is … also world-traveler, musician, documentary film-maker, historian … a true polymath (think “Renaissance man”) and pragmatic humanitarian – amazing guy! The paste is a mix of sweet and hot red peppers dried in the sun to concentrate their flavors. Pomegranates can be found all over Syria and grow wild there- fabulous – and the syrup made from their fruit is ambrosia. Mahammra is unabashed, potent, sweet-hot flavor and highly addicting. Side dishes from a local market completed the feast.
A bottle of arak, the anise-flavored grape juice based distilled liquor (often home-made) of the region came out, red wine also, but I was advised that arak was the drink of choice for a barbeque. Arak packs quite a punch and I can only handle a small amount! It’s typically mixed with water in whatever ratio the drinker desires which turns it a milky white though some drink it straight. Adel counseled me on how to drink it without getting drunk: the first cup you drink ever so slowly to make the small glass last almost an hour. After that, most people can drink as much as they want to. I didn’t test the theory too far but did sip the first one slowly and true enough the second (and final for me) cup seemed to give no effect at all. I think further research may be required on my part 😉
The conversation was not of the war and politics, but some of the rest of life – covering the history of the house; the Aleppo culture before the war – particularly the music scene; how Syrians used to enjoy hashish until it was made illegal decades ago; to ‘normal’ talk among the friends who were present switching back and forth between Arabic and English. Some of the time was spent listening to one of the lady’s singing with others joining in parts or quietly drumming with their hands on the table. For many of those moments I just closed my eyes to soak it all up; she has a beautiful clear voice.
Coffee and sweets upstairs in the living areas ended the evening. Only one room of the grand days remained mostly undamaged from the fire. The formal sitting room was darkened from the smoke but still elegant and gorgeous and I was delighted to get some time there. Six hours after I’d arrived I had to leave and was sad to do so, but it was my last night in Syria and wanted to meet a few beloved friends before leaving the next day.
What a special, glowy day to cherish.
